![]() 05/10/2015 at 21:38 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
This is the 400 small block Chevy in my old pickup truck. It runs pretty good, but I need to replace the cracked and dry rotted heater hoses. It also is leaking oil out the front of the intake manifold, so since I’m already draining the coolant to replace the hoses, I might as well pull the intake and replace the gasket.
Since I’m already draining the coolant, taking the distributor out and the intake off, I would really like to replace the solid lifter cam the PO installed with something hydraulic (less maintenance), which means pulling the water pump and the timing cover, which means pulling the oil pan; easy enough to do without pulling the motor in this trick.
And since I’m pulling the pan, it wouldn’t be really that much more work to pull the rear main cap and replace the seal, which I’m sure could use replacing.
All for two heater hoses.
![]() 05/10/2015 at 22:14 |
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Carbureted oppos UNITE
![]() 05/10/2015 at 22:15 |
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The rear main seal will still leak after your done with it all because that’s just the way things like this go.
![]() 05/10/2015 at 22:19 |
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You’re engine bay is so clean. My truck’s is awful. Thinking about doing a new wiring harness since the current one is a mess. It would help I think
![]() 05/10/2015 at 22:20 |
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True, but if this has the old style “rope” seal, a newer seal will be better, if only a bit.
![]() 05/10/2015 at 22:23 |
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they make an offset rear main seal so that you don't keep the seal on the same groove of the crank. I just put one in my 327 when I had the motor out of my 68 camaro
![]() 05/10/2015 at 22:36 |
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I’ve used one of the rope seals once.
Won’t use one again.
![]() 05/10/2015 at 23:33 |
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Replace the intake with a Edelbrock air gap rpm. it will be the best thing you ever did.